When temperatures rise, ice cream becomes the object of everyone’s desire – for consumers and brands alike. As a result, during this sweltering summer, creativity in the world of ice cream has reached new heights.
Just as we were starting to get used to the clash of unlikely flavours, with olive oil, yuzu and matcha leading the way, but also gherkins, onions, oysters, Camembert, hay, shiso, Espelette chilli, aromatic herbs and even croissants at The French Bastards, a new ice age is dawning on our taste buds: that of ‘fashion ice cream’. Fashion logic taken right down to ice cream cones, somewhere between collaborations and concepts. Inevitably Instagrammable. It was bound to happen.
This summer, at Amorino, customers could try two summer fruit sorbets – low in sugar, vegan and gluten-free – created in collaboration with Benefit Cosmetics; whilst at La Samaritaine, Maison Aleph offered an orange blossom, rose and vanilla ice cream, inspired by the new Henry Jacques fragrance. Quite the idea. At Pierre Hermé, signature ice creams and pastries came together to offer new sensations that were both familiar and original, whilst at Vuitton, the brand’s signature motifs were reimagined as LV-monogrammed shortcrust cones and a chocolate reinterpretation of its flower mascot as a topping – All done with the utmost discretion. Enough to turn every ice cream into a fashion accessory.
The product has become a symbol and, as such, a source of immediate added value. This change in status is by no means coincidental. Gone are the days of ice creams that merely refresh; make way for ‘enhanced ice creams’, which also promise to amaze, create a buzz and flatter the ego by giving the feeling of gaining access to a world of exclusivity.
This new generation of ice creams – more expensive and more creative – perfectly embodies those little affordable luxuries, both beautiful and delicious, sought after by today’s consumers, who have become budget-conscious but are determined not to sacrifice their enjoyment. Desire never dies. The desire to buy can outweigh purchasing power in times of crisis, provided that products manage to combine surprising affordability with a status symbol, thereby keeping the reality of the price at bay in favour of perceived emotional value. One need only look at the success of €8 lattes and €10 individual pastries to be fully convinced….