From Crousty to Master, chicken-based brands have never been so prominent. This reflects current food trends and the economic climate. Chicken, a source of protein highly sought after by anyone looking to build muscle, paired with rice, also offers a guarantee of satiety that is both affordable and highly desirable in these times of financial strain.
But when it pops up in the Society or even Politics sections of media outlets, it serves as a reminder that the symbolic significance of what’s on our plates is not merely a matter of fashion, aesthetics and values, but also of issues relating to class, generation and background. Given how long brands have been championing communities and dreaming of serving them, it was only a matter of time before this happened. Consumption cannot be reduced to moments of conviviality and domestic bliss.
Traditionally, a sense of belonging to a community is largely conveyed through the recognition of an instantly identifiable symbol, previously shared across social media. A logo, a bag, but also a bubble tea in unusual colours, a bright green matcha latte or any other product from Instagram-worthy takeaway coffee shops. With rotisseries such as Master Poulet, the Instagrammability of the dish or the venue is not a prerequisite for success. A lesson to be learnt.
This sense of belonging is experienced differently: in person, and amongst peers—those who share the same background, the same interests and are of a similar age. Eating out with friends, whilst certainly the cause of the crowds denounced by the detractors of chicken franchises, can also be seen as a genuine driver of growth and customer loyalty for the chains. The virtue of shared consumption.
Because people rarely go to these chicken joints on their own; they go with their mates. The same lads who’ll then head to the gym to pump iron, to Citadium to check out the latest trainers, or to Sephora to find their signature fragrance.
Community consumption isn’t limited to online platforms. It exists in real life, too. And it isn’t exclusive to chicken chains, as illustrated by the success of pop-up stores, coffee shops and sports equipment outlets, which are now seen as urban meeting places. The new role of retail.