After the wagon-restaurant (restaurant car), then the voiture-bar (bar car), SNCF high-speed customers will now be frequenting the Bistro TGV INOUI to contemplate the passing scenery from the comfort of their seat.
‘A new name, a new culinary experience with a menu inspired by the classics of French cuisine‘, announces the railway company, waxing lyrical, with (solid) evidence to back it up: Toulouse sausage and purée or baked potatoes in gribiche sauce, diced Cantal cheese, as main courses, potentially followed by a chocolate fondant or moelleux. All under the watchful eye of a barista (the neo-garçon) who will ‘give you a warm welcome’. The SNCF’s website explains that this offer is designed to respect the environment, with seasonal recipes that encourage the use of French ingredients and short distribution channels, ticking all the boxes for perfect storytelling.
Our plates have never been so full of the bistro spirit as they have been ever since the end of the health crisis. It all started with the comeback of Bouillon restaurants (what town doesn’t have one nowadays?), seen as the miracle solution to the restaurant crisis, with its traditional, simple and consensual recipes, its low prices, its large, well-filled dining rooms with quick turnover, its local and international clientele sat together in close proximity, and its atmospheric waiting line. No need to book three months in advance to enjoy the 7.30pm service.
After the Bouillons, it was the turn of the bar-PMU, decreed the last bastions of an authenticity that has become synonymous with truth, both capable of maintaining connections in forgotten territories, from their old-fashioned counters, and seducing the Fooding experts who love nothing more than to see themselves as pioneers of the zeitgeist. Today, we’re back to the time of the bistro, with the sausage and mash as its standard, the ultimate symbol of a France which, having failed to establish harmonious togetherness as an ideal, is now trying to resolve its tensions through consensual dining habits.
In Paris, an ephemeral restaurant (note: concept) has just set up on the edge of rue Montorgueil (until June 30th) with, as its only promise, a dish for €6.90 that changes every three weeks. The first dish to be announced? A sausage and mash followed by a chocolate mousse for €2.90. We can hardly wait to know the next one…