Amidst the Gare du Nord station, which is crammed with fast-food outlets, a new establishment has just opened opposite platform 12, born out of a partnership between Cafés Richard and Bouillon Service. Café de quartier, as its name suggests, is aimed at a broad, working-class, everyday clientele who come and go through the station at all hours. Historically, every station had its own restaurant. The ‘Buffets de la gare’ and other ‘Buvettes’ were the places where anyone willing to wait would meet – whether to pass the time whilst waiting for someone, a train or simply to let the day go by. Since then, stations have evolved into giant food courts where each outlet offers its own speciality.
The launch of Café de quartier is, first and foremost, a welcome opportunity to reconnect with a diverse range of options at a single outlet. There’s enough to keep you going all day, from coffee and croissants to Dauphiné-style ravioli and sausages with mashed potato, not to mention eggs with mayonnaise, chocolate mousse or rice pudding – not to mention afternoon tea and aperitifs, which have become key times for the restaurant industry. Every product is a moment in itself.
Café de quartier also illustrates the versatility of ‘bouillon’. Originally based on the concept of popular, accessible and cross-generational cuisine, served quickly and enthusiastically in a bustling dining room, ‘bouillon’ has become synonymous with ‘good, fast and affordable for everyone’. A French-style fast-food concept, combined with the promise of an experience. This is exactly what everyone expects nowadays when they go to a restaurant whilst keeping a close eye on their wallet. It didn’t take much more than that for it to become a concept.
This has been achieved with Café de quartier, a fusion of two formats with powerful imagery capable of making desirable things that, elsewhere, would attract little interest (sausage and eggs, egg and mayonnaise, sausage and mashed potato, chocolate mousse). Takeaway food is becoming a takeaway experience. There’s no longer any need for a bar counter, a cosy dining room or attentive waiters; the dishes speak for themselves, as they are a visual language, the expression of skilfully crafted storytelling that brings people together. It would be a shame not to capitalise on this trend. Until 1 November, Picard is bringing together a selection of its great French culinary classics under the ‘façon Bouillon’ label, whilst on the Grands Boulevards, Ma! presents itself as an ‘Italian chic bouillon’ (?!). Bouillons have taken hold of this new era.