The Fooding guide is celebrating its 25th anniversary. How time flies! Tomorrow’s historians will say that in France, there was a before and after Fooding. Before, there were Le Guide Vert and Michelin guide, and culinary television programmes hosted by unique chefs chosen for their regional accents. With the Fooding guide, coolness triumphed. A concept that was still little known at the beginning of the century, it would become a lifestyle that even found its way onto our plates.
Coolness is the primacy of brotherly horizontality over paternal verticality, the revenge of the small local player over the international giant, the consecration of gesture and know-how in the face of industrialisation, intention as proof of sincerity. An ideal society made of humanity and kindness. Time for small plates, small producers and still wines.
The Fooding was initially a matter of vocabulary and grammar. New, invented words, rich in imagery and, above all, capable of rendering obsolete those we had known for too long. A way of demonstrating one’s difference. Dining in a bristroquet does not have the same flavour as dining in the local bistro. A natural or artisan wine does not tell the same story as a cépage.
It also marked an aesthetic break with tradition. Destructured, deconstructed, fusion dishes gradually became the norm. Graphic, airy, photogenic and then Instagrammable, they revolutionised presentation and expectations, allowing a generation to make its mark by pushing the boundaries.
The Fooding guide now counts many Boomers among its readers, raising the question of where the next generation of diners is. Faced with a restaurant sector that is struggling to remain attractive (high prices, fierce competition leading to standardisation of codes and offerings, ‘photocopied’ storytelling), the vitality of coffee shops, alcohol-free or low-alcohol wines and fermented drinks is striking.
Unprecedented shapes and colours, insider vocabulary, new ways of consuming, refined and renewed aesthetics, ethical discourse: promises of exclusivity that are reminiscent of the origins of the Fooding. Except that today, the movement is no longer in the hands of specialised journalists but passionate influencers who are not looking to do better, but differently. Proof that our relationship with food is primarily generational.